How to Make Marmalade

Recipes Made Easy shows you how to make a Seville orange marmalade step by step. As well as lots of hints and tips for making this classic preserve.

Although marmalade can be made with other citrus fruit, I think Seville oranges, which are too bitter to eat when raw, make the most delicious marmalades.

Seville oranges are grown in Seville, Spain, almost exclusively for export to the UK, where they are welcomed by those who make marmalade, myself included.

For a period of around 6 weeks at the beginning of the year they are in season, so most Januarys, you will find me in the kitchen making a batch of Seville orange marmalade to last me through the year.  

Marmalade is a little time consuming to make as it requires a longish cooking time but it is not difficult to make. Now considered old fashioned by some, marmalade is made and consumed by a dwindling number of people. This is such a shame, not only does it make great sandwiches much loved by a rather famous bear, to my mind it is just the best spread to have on toast. I personally love the stuff.

It also goes well in cakes and bakes, such as my marmalade Danish pastries, so don't let this fantastic preserve disappear completely. Follow my easy step by step method and I am sure you will not be disappointed.

Ingredients

This classic marmalade is made from just three ingredients

• Seville oranges
• Lemon juice
• Sugar

If liked, you can also add a splash of booze such as whiskey or brandy to add a little extra flavour nuance.

Seville Oranges

When ripe, Seville oranges are aromatic with a sour, tangy, and somewhat bitter taste. They are a cross between a pomelo and a mandarin and are a member of the citrus family.

Seville oranges have a thick, yellow-orange rind that is rough with a dimpled texture. Higher in pectin than the sweet orange, they give a better set and yield. They also give marmalade its characteristic bitter flavour.

Seville orange season runs from the end of December through to mid-February. They freeze well so if you don't have time to make marmalade then you can always stock up on them when they are available and freeze whole until you have a little more time.

Can I use sweet oranges instead?

Yes, you can but as they are lower in pectin you will get a softer set. Add an extra lemon into the mix.

Lemon

Lemon juice is added to the marmalade to help with the setting. I tend to add the lemon peel as well as it seems a shame to waste it. If you have bottled lemon juice add 2 tablespoons instead.

Sugar

I use granulated sugar (white or golden) or preserving sugar to make marmalade.

What's the difference between preserving sugar and jam sugar and why do we use these to make preserves?

Preserving sugar has larger crystals than granulated sugar that dissolve more slowly and have the advantage of producing less scum and produces slightly brighter and clearer results.

It should not be confused with jam sugar which has added pectin and tartaric acid. Jam sugar is the perfect choice when making preserves from fruits that are low in pectin such as strawberries.

Do not use jam sugar to make marmalade.

Equipment

You will need to have a large saucepan or wide stockpot. When the marmalade boils it will rise up up the side of the pan so it needs to be big enough to allow for this.

You will also need a piece of muslin and jam jars to pot the marmalade into.

Useful equipment to have when making preserves

• Preserving pan – The wider the pan the larger the surface of the marmalade liquid and the quicker the water evaporates, which means that the setpoint is reached quicker. Preserving pans are worth investing in if you want to make a lot of preserves They have slopping sides so the top is wider aiding evaporation.
• Thermometer – To help test when setting point is reached. The setting point of jam and marmalade is between 105-110℃ (221-230 °F).
• Long handled wooden spoon – It can get uncomfortably hot stirring a boiling preserve.
• Jam funnel – makes potting the jam without spilling easier.

How to make Marmalade step by step

Step one – squeeze the juice

Line a bowl with a square of muslin. Wash the oranges and lemon.  Cut in half and squeeze out the juice. Place the juice in a large pan and the pips into the muslin lined bowl.

Step Two – scoop out the flesh

Scoop out any remaining flesh from the halved fruit with a teaspoon and add to the pips in the bowl.

Step Three – preparing the peel

Cut the orange shells in half again, then finely shred the peel with a sharp knife. It is up to you if you add the lemon peel as well. Personally, I chuck that in too, why waste it?

If you want to save time, you can chop the orange peel in a food processor. The marmalade will not look as pretty but it will taste just the same.

I like a good chunky marmalade but if you prefer you can cut the peel into much finer shreds.

Step Four – cooking the peel

Place the peel in the pan and add the water. Tie the muslin with the pips and flesh inside into a bag with string and tie to the handle of the pan.  Add the water.

Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook uncovered very gently for 2 hours until the peel is very soft.  Remove from the heat.

Step Five – squeezing out the pectin

Lift out the muslin bag and squeeze as much as you can out of the bag by pressing it between two saucers. This "goo" is full of pectin which will help your marmalade set.

Better still, allow it to cool and squeeze it out with your hands – messy but it gets the maximum pectin out.

Step Six – adding the sugar

Measure the liquid including the peel. You should have about 2 litres (3¼pints) (8½ cups). Makeup to this quantity with cold water if required. Then stir in the sugar.

Step Seven – dissolving the sugar

Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Check this by stirring well and lifting up the spoon, you will not be able to see any sugar crystals on the spoon.

Step Eight – boiling the marmalade

Once the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat and bring to a rolling boil. As soon as the marmalade is boiling rapidly, set a timer and boil for 15 minutes. Stirring occasionally.

Step Nine – checking for set

After 15 minutes, test for set by placing a small spoonful of marmalade on a cold saucer and allow to cool. The marmalade will wrinkle when pushed with your finger once the setting point has been reached. (Turn off the heat while you test). If it does not wrinkle, boil for another 5 minutes and test again. Repeat if necessary until you have a set.

If you have a thermometer the setting point of marmalade is between 105-110℃ (221-230 °F). The setting temperature is not exact because every kitchen environment is very different and the setting point depends on among other things the altitude and humidity.  For this reason, I still like to do the wrinkle test. But a thermometer can be a better guide for when the setting is reached rather than timing.

Step Ten – dispersing any scum

Once the setting point is reached, stir in a small knob of butter to disperse any scum. Spoon off any that remains. If you have used preserving sugar you may not need to do this. If you like, a little brandy or whisky can be added at this point.

Step Eleven - potting

Allow to stand for 15 minutes, then pot into sterilised jars. If you have a jam funnel I find it easiest to simply ladle the marmalade into the jars through the funnel.

If you do not have a funnel ladle the marmalade into a heatproof measuring jug and use this to pour the marmalade into the jars.

Step 12 – sealing

Immediately after each jar is filled, cover the top with a waxed disc (wax side down) or piece of parchment so that it lies flat on the surface and excludes any air. This will help to prevent mould from forming during storage.

Then secure the lid on the jar while the marmalade is still hot.

Jars can also be sealed with cellophane secured over the jar with a rubber band. As the preserve cools the cellophane will tighten producing an airtight seal.

My marmlade has not set, what do I do?

If your marmalade remains runny and does not fully set, do not worry as all is not lost. You can reboil the marmalade until you achieve a set or even add a little pectin and reboil to achieve a firmer set.

Marmalade can take 48 hrs to set and sometimes longer as the pectin needs time to fully develop. So if your marmalade is not set once it has cooled, wait at least 48 hrs or even a week before you re-boil your marmalade. 

To reboil, open all your jars up again and pour the marmalade into a large saucepan. (You will need to wash and re-sterilise the jars before potting again). Start heating the marmalade over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Boil rapidly for about 5 minutes before testing for a set, boil for longer if necessary.  

Alternatively, once you have added the unset marmalade to the pan whisk in one tablespoon of powdered pectin as your marmalade heats up. Bring to a rapid boil for 1-2 minutes before testing again. If you are still not achieving the right set, add more powdered pectin (1 extra teaspoon of pectin re-boil and test again.

How long will it keep?

Homemade marmalade will keep for at least a year unopened. Store in a cool dark place. Once opened refrigerate and use within 3 months.

How can I save time making this preserve?

Seville orange marmalade is easy to make but it does take time. You can reduce the preparation time by chopping the peel in a food processor if you have one. The pieces of peel will be irregular in size and shape so it doesn't look as pretty but better than not having any marmalade!

The long cooking time required to soften the peel can be reduced to around 30 minutes if you use a pressure cooker to make marmalade. Check out my quick and easy marmalade recipe.